Riding the Rails

Eric:

Like a lot of major metropolitan transit systems, London, Paris, Moscow, Shanghai to name a few, Yangon has the “Yangon Circular Railway” that orbits the greater metro area providing commuter service from outlying areas to downtown.  Not too surprisingly, the Yangon version in no way resembles the modern, efficient systems in these other cities.  No raised platforms, no quiet, electrified engines, no automated ticketing machines, and a train that moves only slightly faster than I can run.  Sort of taking the “rapid” out of rapid transit.

For foreigners, there is only one place to start your journey, the downtown Central Railway Station.  A somewhat unique public structure in that it was built after the British had made their departure (the original British built station was first repeatedly bombed by the Japanese, and ultimately blown up by the retreating British in 1943).

Central railway station, built in 1954 - design based on traditional Burmese architectural style

Here you first present your passport, the details of which are painstakingly recorded by hand in a large ledger.  Then you surrender your pristine $1 bill (US currency only), and the agent carefully handwrites your “foreigner ticket” and directs you to wait outside for your train.



Ticket for two

 

After months of talking about it, Rossana and I made the journey last weekend.  Once ticketed, and after sitting for on the station platform for a few minutes, the ticket agent abruptly tells us to hurry to board our train on an adjacent platform which is preparing to depart.  A train that has been sitting there at least as long as we had been.

The Circular Railway itself is 31 miles (45.9 kilometers) around, with 39 stations and an entire circuit takes in the neighborhood of three rather bone jarring hours to complete.  Like so much in Yangon, aforementioned Central Station aside, the rail system was built by the British, and appears to have received little in the way of upkeep or improvements since their departure.  Passenger carriages are not air conditioned, with no doors or window glass.  A wooden plank can be lowered in lieu of a window to close off the elements during monsoon season – though I can only imagine how stuffy it must become when this happens.  I’m only mildly surprised they aren’t still using steam locomotives.                                                 

I'm only sure this locomotive isn't still in use because it's so clean

                             

In fact, signs of the steam era are still in evidence alongside the rails.

Artsy B&W pic I took of a surviving steam locomotive water crane

                                                                        

Once underway, the scenery quickly changes from the urban skyline of downtown to a decidedly rural landscape with crops of unknown vegetation planted right up to the tracks.

 

Not sure what they're growing in that marsh, but I've doubtless eaten some of it



Farmer cares for his crop in waist deep water

Further evidence you are beyond the confines of the city also become apparent in the smell, as you quickly pass beyond areas served by public sewers, and trash collection.


Local rubbish dump sits between settlement and the tracks

  The journey itself is less like a commute than a movable party.  Vendors move from car to car with baskets of various items for sale.  Some for immediate consumption, others selling flowers, toys, and most anything else that can be lifted into a rail car. 


Would you like fries with that?

 


The center aisle of the carriage is public space for whatever oversized possessions you care to lug aboard

 

Bundles of produce to be sold on the train or at market

 And the ubiquitous beetle nut vendor.


Thankfully, people lean out the windows to spit



Heading to a party!

Several stations have markets set up along the platforms selling food, flowers, and much more.

 

 As we were seated in the last carriage of the train, we also got to observe the train’s flagman.  His job appears to consist of sitting in the window and waiving a green flag at the Engineer at each stop, giving the go ahead to proceed.  He had a red flag too, but we never got to see that one in use.

Flagman preparing to waive the all clear

For locals, the fare is much lower.  Travel from 0-15 miles costs 10 Kyat (about 9 cents US), and beyond 15 miles, 20Kyat (about 18 cents).  Though I don’t know how or where locals buy their tickets, I never saw anybody selling them anywhere except the central station, and during our entire journey, a conductor only came by to check tickets twice – both times within a couple minutes of each other.

A news article last week heralded the intention to launch a new train early in 2014, complete with radical innovations like glass windows and air conditioning.  This as the government attempts to ready the rail network for privatization.  A tough sell for a system that reportedly costs US$325,000 per month to operate while generating only US$52,000.  Fare for foreigners on the new train will double to $2.   

It's been several weeks since my last post, so here's a few assorted photos that I've snapped along the way with no particular theme. 

Ford F-150, eat your heart out

 
Came across this boat which appears to be on the verge of becoming a submarine, although the people onboard appeared quite unconcerned and were enjoying a leisurely lunch.


Up periscope!

 
You come across a lot of these roadside vendors in Yangon.  At first glance, I thought they were selling liquor, but once you get within smelling distance, it's apparent that they're actually selling gasoline, and other fuels.  I couldn't figure this out as there is no shortage of gas stations around town.  I mean, who would rather buy this "mystery gas", never mind having to add it a quart at a time...


Do you think the Black Label bottles contain a better grade of gas than the Red Label?



Smoke at your own peril

And then the other day, I was in a taxi and we ran out of gas.  Nonplussed, the cab driver got out, waved his arm, and one of these "gas station" guys came trotting over with a Jonnie Walker bottle of petrol.  Some cash changed hands, and moments later we were on our way.  As best I can figure, there are a lot of drivers who cannot afford to fill up their cars, and rely on these gypsy gas stations for just enough gas to get home.

Goin' to the hoosegow!  A police paddy wagon loaded with prisoners rolls by (is calling it a paddy wagon politically incorrect?)

Another river image, this one of laborers unloading baskets of gravel from a barge onto the shore.  Talk about walking the plank...


Is this how the Great Pyramids were built?

I can only imagine the message this sign is attempting to convey

Those fried crickets are sounding better and better

 Bad day to be a duck. 


Ducks hanging out to dry in the noonday sun atop my local BBQ restaurant

A few folks have asked me about how/if Christmas is celebrated in Myanmar.  Here's your answer:

Basket O'Santa's for sale at a local supermarket - admittedly a rather upscale market frequented by the Yangon expat community



The stockings were hung by the um, basketball court with care....  Outside what looks like an elementary school or daycare center

They also string Christmas lights on anything not moving.  Lots and lots of Christmas lights.  Even the large Catholic church downtown was strung with more lights than the typical American shopping mall.  Rossana and I were riding in a car the other day and there was an English language childrens'(?) program on the radio explaining the intricacies of Santa Claus, and how to make your Christmas list. 

As our apartment is on the 4th floor, we're more or less at treetop level.  A great vantage point to witness an interesting phenomenon that takes place each evening just before sunset.  For no obvious reason, every bird in the hemisphere seems to take to the skies for five or ten minutes.   They'll fly around, make a bunch of noise, and then just as quickly, settle back into the treetops for the evening. 

Apartment buildings in Yangon seldom rise more than 8 stories.  This is because of local regulations that call for elevators (and the back up power supply necessary to support them) in buildings of 9 stories or more.  As a result, it's common to see long lengths of cord dangling from the upper floors of many buildings with a binder clip or plastic bag affixed to the bottom.  This is used to raise various purchases from the street level without having to clomp down eight flights of stairs just to pick up your evening newspaper, or the carrots that some vendor is peddling.   

Low tech freight elevator

Parting shot:

This isn't even Yangon, but Rossana and I were in Bangkok for a couple days around Christmas and I took this fun picture of the neighboring balconies from our hotel.