Going Undercover

Eric:

One of our first weeks in Yangon I made a reconnaissance trip to check out what was available in the local supermarket.  While there, I tried to snap a couple photos of the soft drink aisle for Rossana [for those not acquainted with her, she works for a tiny beverage manufacturer who shall remain nameless], as she is always curious about brand placement on the supermarket shelves.  Before I could take my first photo, a uniformed guard did a dash that would have shamed OJ Simpson across the store to stop me from taking the picture.  Not wanting to risk supermarket jail, I let the subject drop.  Until now…

Beverage aisle money shot.



In general, supermarkets here aren’t all that different in look and feel than most any other country (at least those that have supermarkets).  Cashiers at the front, produce along one side, meat at the back, aisles that are too narrow for the volume of shopping carts, you get the idea. 

It takes a bit of planning and luck to go grocery shopping though.  While all markets surely carry the Burmese staples all the time (100 varieties of fish paste, noodles for soup, various organs and meat pieces from an array of swimming/crawling/scampering species, a few common vegetables, and beer), when it comes to consumer products and international foods, it’s kind of like visiting a Costco, there is a decent assortment available, but you never really know what it will be. 

Just a few of the many kinds of fish paste on offer in the deli section



More deli counter treats - unidentified fried meat things.



I will see an item on the shelves for months, and then (naturally) as soon as I plan a menu around it – it’s nowhere to be found.  Depending on the item, I can sometimes locate the needed ingredient at another market, but more often I suspect that they’re all buying from the same few wholesalers – so when the distributor runs out of lamb, nobody has any until the next boat from New Zealand docks. 

My ship has come in.





Actually, meat is the thing I’m most dissatisfied with here.  Even the supermarkets that cater heavily to the expat community have a poor selection of fresh (or frozen) meat.  Beef quality is quite poor, and nobody seems to offer anything that resembles a decent steak or roast.  Several supermarkets have no fresh meat or seafood, just a small freezer section, often limited to frozen fish and processed meals.  

The entire selection of fresh meat available at one of the good supermarkets.



Frozen fish (and what looks like it might be a pork chop lower left).

One of the nicer things about most Yangon supermarkets is that no matter what time of day or night you shop, every single cashier position is staffed.

Are you listening Kroger?
 

Another oddity I notice is an inordinate amount of floor/shelf space and staff dedicated to beauty products.  This is always the widest aisle in the supermarket and there will be a staff member positioned every few feet who sidles up to you the second you stop to look at an item.  Actually, this is a practice in most retail shops as well.  As soon as you walk in, a clerk will follow hopefully at your heels the entire time you are in their store.  Sort of like having your very own not so subtle stalker.   



Nivea products, holster not included.

Beauty product aisle wider than some Yangon streets.



Certain items have to be paid for separately – sometimes.  Wine for instance.  Sometimes I have to pay for it in the wine section, sometimes I can just take it to the main register.  I've not been able to figure out the pattern here.    

The good wines...

 

And the Myanmar equivalent of MD20 20

Checkout is a bit different as all transactions are handled in cash, and the largest note used is the equivalent of a $5 bill (there is a bill that is roughly equivalent to a $10 bill in circulation, but you almost never see them).  It’s not uncommon to see someone paying for a $100+ grocery bill in the equivalent of $1 bills.   All of which have to be counted at least three times.  The yuppie expat market that I frequent has four checkout lanes reserved for customers who bring their own shopping bags.  An innovation that unfortunately doesn't seem to be catching on.  When I bring my own shopping bags into other stores, the clerks always giggle at me.

Rather tired produce at one of the smaller supermarkets.

 

Dragon Fruit - Rossana's favorite.

 

This celery has amassed more frequent flyer miles than I have.



Some more supermarket porn:



Thai script - many of the consumer products available are manufactured in Thailand.



 

Have I mentioned how much cooking oil is used here?

Although civil liberties haven't quite made their way to Myanmar, Hallmark Holidays certainly have.  Happy Valentines Day.

Of course for the majority of locals, their shopping isn’t done at the supermarket at all.  They purchase most everything at the various open air markets around town.  Prices are lower, but unfortunately, health standards at these markets are also pretty low and the number of flies are pretty high.  While I will buy vegetables at these markets, I can’t bring myself to trust their fish or meats.

Some street market pics: 


Butcher counter - chicken and pork.



Please, just one drumstick!

Chicken with freakishly large feet.

Although there are several large open air markets set up in dedicated spaces, these photos are all taken in the various "unorganized" markets that spring up daily throughout the city along the sidewalks and edges of traffic. 

 

Many of these photos I took back in October at the end of rainy season.  Now that the rains have gone, the flies are worse - and we aren't even into the hot months yet.

 



Sharing space with traffic on a busy thoroughfare.

Whole Foods beta version.



I'm happy to report a correction to a previous post.  In the "Colonial Decay" post back in November, I wrote that the building in the photo below had fallen victim to redevelopers and was now a hole in the ground.  I was right about the hole, but the building lives on around the corner from where I'd thought it was - for now at least.

Parting shot:

Feels like we're in Selma, circa 1963.

In fairness, I think the sign directs you to a western style toilet, vs. the local squat type.  But I didn't care to find out.